I thought I might say a bit about how I got to this point. This pilgrimage did not leap into my head as a fully-grown idea. Over the course of several months or more, I had been reflecting on what direction my life should take since my husband of nearly forty years had died and my son, soon graduating from college, would be on the way to a life of his own.
I have long had an idea for a café, but I knew that once I committed to that, I would be tied to a physical location for at least five years, if not more, and I realized, after so many years of splitting time between two (or three, or more) continents, that I was not quite ready yet to do that.
The traffic jams of the I-80 highway in Berkeley, California, allow for periods of reflection while gazing at the ever-changing views of San Francisco and the Golden Gate bridge and waiting for the endless stream of cars to make their way.
During one of those times, I also realized that while I wanted to travel, I was tired of vehicles – planes, cars, and even trains – and wanted to be moving in a way that was more connected to the ground, slower, that would allow for contemplation and the ability, hopefully, to really see a place. Not being much of a cyclist or equestrian, walking sounded about right to me. But where, and how? I knew I did not just want to get “on the road” without some purpose. And yet, because I needed to continue to work, I could not engage in some volunteer activity where my time would not be my own.
About that time, probably spring 2018, I happened (or one might say was guided) to learn from some friends that they were regular pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. Discussions with them led me to the idea of a walking pilgrimage, which rang like a bell within me. But which path? While I venerate Saint James, this particular path did not resonate strongly, and when I learned that some pilgrims would get up at 4am in order to secure a place in the next albergo, I decided this was not for me, as a first pilgrimage anyway.
To the internet, then. At first I researched pilgrim paths in Russia, and in India, but in both cases, the lack of good language skills, and of clearly defined walking paths and infrastructure in the countries in question made me think that both were a bit too much to undertake for someone doing this for the first time.
I am not sure how I happened on the site of the Via Francigena. But there it was. Canterbury to Rome, undertaken by Sigeric the Serious, a bishop of Canterbury in the 10th century. Before the schism of the churches. Links on that page to the “Vie Francigene del sud” – although not specifically a pilgrim path, pointed me in the direction of Jerusalem, which meant much more to me as a destination than Rome.
And so it was – Canterbury to Jerusalem.
The way as far as Rome, and possibly to Bari, where the relics of St. Nicholas are kept, seemed clear. The rest of the way is not yet evident, but I trust it will be revealed. I considered the Via Egnatia, across Albania from Durres, over northern Greece and Turkey, to Istanbul and then south, but I would arrive in the Albanian mountains in December, and for the same reasons that Russia and India seemed ill-advised, so did this path. Others have walked a peace pilgrimage from northern Europe to Jerusalem, (the Jerusalem Way) but England, France, Switzerland and Italy seemed a better choice for me, as I speak French and can make my way more or less in Italian, and I spent ten years in Switzerland, where I still have friends to stay with along the way.
When? Spring of 2019, for various reasons, was the closest opportunity. Sigeric’s route can be completed in 92 days, but I knew that that would be impossible, since I will be working and may need to stop periodically because of that. Plus I needed to build in some time for Holy Week and Easter and for my own self, to provide some rest and repair.
Then there are the Schengen visa restrictions for Europe, since I do not benefit from an EU passport. Ninety days out of 180 are permitted. This meant I could walk for three months, be away for three months, and take up the path again after that.
So it seemed April-June 2019 – break for summer – return late September through December, with the goal of arriving in Bethlehem for Christmas (celebrated by the Orthodox on January 7).
My goal for the first part, if all goes well, is to make it at least over the Grand St. Bernard pass and into Italy before my first 90 days run out.